Locks Squealing - Part Deux  (Page 1 of 1)
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IndyDurango
Membership/Treasurer - 2000 SLT+ 5.9L FT4X4


DOTM 01/06
  and
 2006 DOTY


First post: 25 Aug 2005
Total posts: 12186
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:18 am EST     Post subject: Locks Squealing - Part Deux Reply with quote  
On 02/19/06 I wrote about having a failed front door locking mechanism. The tell-tail sign is a pig squeal when the locks are engaged. Here was my review of the replacement process for the drivers door mechanism:
http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=26951

As reported last week, my drivers side rear door had started the pig squeal noting the end of the life of that mechanism. I ordered the replacement from DodgeParts.com for under $60 delivered and just had to tackle the replacement. A review of the front locking mechanism replacement allowed me to recall the true PITA that DIY project was. I wasn't looking forward to the rear replacement but assumed it had to be easier since there's no key lock cylinder, electric controls, etc. Correct.

Total time to replace, taking my time and with zero rush: 15 minutes.

Start by taking the only obvious screw out behind the main center of the door. It's a large phillips screw. Next, pull the open-door latch from inside the D and remove a matching large phillips screw from behind the pull. Next, there are two smaller phillips screws along the bottom of the door panel near the door seal. These get wet, so they probably will be slightly rusted. PB Blast them prior to putting them back during the reinstall. Next, pull/pop off the vertical plastic cover along the window glass. At the bottom of the cover… still on the door panel… is the last small phillips screw to remove. 5 screws, one pop off cover. That's it.

Lift the door panel straight up about an inch and pull outward. That'll unlatch the door panel from the inner support areas holding it to the metal skins. Locate the push bar running horizontal along the door to the pull handle. Using a standard screw driver, pop off the colored connector at the end of the bar at the handle area. Unplug the electrical connector to the power components in the door. Remove panel and sit it out of the way until finished.

From the door opening side, pull the plastic inner liner away from the door metal. It'll be sealed in place by a sticky black tack. Peel the plastic liner back two thirds of the way until you get to the door speaker. There's no need to take the liner off. Once peeled back to the speaker, leave it there until ready to press it back in place.

Locate the three star screws in the face of the door that hold in the locking mechanism. Remove ONLY TWO of the three bolts at this time. On the exposed door panel side, using the large standard screw driver, work with holes and areas cut out in the sheet metal to "pop" up and off the three colored push bar connectors from their corresponding bars where they connect to the locking mechanism. One goes to the exterior pull handle, one goes to the interior pull handle and the third to the door lock on the other end of the door. Once disconnected, leave the newly disconnected push bars in place and alone.

While holding the mechanism in place from inside the door cavity, remove the final third star bolt holding in the mechanism. Remove mechanism.

Replace and align the new locking mechanism. Replace all three star bolts and tighten accordingly. One by one, place the colored clips back on the control bars. Press them in place with the back side of the standard screw driver. Each bar has a right angle bend in the end of it that enters a hole on the mechanism while the colored clips holds it in place. Once bars are reconnected, push the liner back in place pressing it on the sticky tack all along the edges. Place the door panel back in place and plug back in the electrical connection (my alarm went off when I plugged it back in.) Reconnect the clip at the interior door pull. Lift it in place and position the door panel back to the factory position. Watch and align the edge that rolls over along the length of the window edge. Replace all screws. Pop vertical trim cover back in place.

Using a helper, lock the doors and make sure everything is working correctly. From inside the D in the rear seat, lock and unlock the door and attempt to get out. If the door doesn't open, don't fear. More than likely the child safety latch is in place. Open the door from the outside and flip the child lock into the other position. Reattempt to open door from the inside. If everything works, you're done.

Pix below aid in the above explanation.

HTH,

IndyDurango


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IndyDurango
Membership/Treasurer - 2000 SLT+ 5.9L FT4X4


DOTM 01/06
  and
 2006 DOTY


First post: 25 Aug 2005
Total posts: 12186
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:21 am EST     Post subject: Reply with quote  
remaining install pix

IndyD


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FSTDANGO3
Durango Owners Club President


2007 DOTY


First post: 21 May 2004
Total posts: 18590
Location: Bloomingdale, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:22 am EST     Post subject: Reply with quote  
Nice write up!

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"THE BRONZE BEAST"
www.cardomain.com/id/fstdango3

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