Tracking procedure & build codes

Get your Vehicle Order Number (VON) from your dealer. You dealer will receive this when they enter your order in the computer, so it should not take 3 weeks to get it. Then, call the Chrysler Customer Center at : 1-800-992-1997 and ask for your status. Be aware that certain centers are updates less often that others and you do not know which center you will get when you call. So you may find one day you are in "paint" and the next day you are back to "gateline". Don't worry, just call again.

Once your D is shipped, you can get a rail car number from the 800 number and use www.uprr.com (for Union Pacific) to track the travel (equipment tracking). Or, for Conrail shipments, you can call Conrail. For other rail carriers, call the carrier.

Here are the Order Codes used by Chrysler:

Unscheduled:	BX - good order available for scheduling BB - fleet order only - review by bid department BD - special equipment processing BE - edit error - coding error which must be corrected before order can be scheduled BG - order has passes edit but cannot be scheduled regardless of sold status
Reason Codes:	F - finance hold - automatic cancellation after 15 days B - model or option build out L - material restriction M - material hold (fleet) ZA - canceled order
Scheduled:	C - tentative schedule D - firm schedule: serial number assigned, approx time in station - 5 days D1 - gateline: unit sequenced for production, est ship date assigned, Approx time in station - 12 days
Build:	E - framing F - paint G - trim
Built:	I - unit built, pending final inspection J - vehicle passed final inspection but not released to carrier JB - shipped to body vendor JE - shipped to emissions JJ - consigned to body vendor JS - shipped to storage KZ - released by plant and invoiced
Traffic Codes:	KZ L - released but not shipped KZ M - first rail departure KZ N - first rail arrival KZ O - delayed/received KZ OA - plant hold, quality audit KZ OB - zone, dealer, sales, vehicle prep, tax, diversion or derailment hold, dealer refusal, vehicle diverted KZ OC - carrier delay, strike-bound, emission or safety hold, rail car shortage, bad or insufficient load, inclement weather, need shipping order, manifest error KZ OD - mechanical failure, glass damage, vehicle in repair, lacking parts or storage hold KZ OE - misdropped or misshipped vehicle KZ OF - shipped air freight, stolen vehicle recovered, show vehicle, test info code, vessel sailed KZ OG - damaged vehicle, stolen vehicle, abandon to carrier, vehicle scrapped, donate vehicle, repair and auction KZ OH - all other "O" type carrier codes KZ T - second rail departure KZ U - second rail arrival KZ X - delivered to dealer KZ Y1 - major damage - must not be sold as new KZ Y2 - major damage - vehicle sold at auction

Which engine should I get?

I'd definitely go with the 5.9L. I know it's only a 15 HP difference (230 vs 245), but torque is where the action is so I'd test drive both before you buy. I'd tested a 5.2L and was satisfied but decided to try out a 5.9L anyway. I couldn't find a 5.9L "D", so I drove a Grand Cherokee and it definitely changed my mind. My 5.9L "D" isn't as quick as the Jeep since it's heavier and has the 3.55 rear instead of the 3.92 but it's still plenty strong and the MPG penalty is slight! Besides, anyone buying an SUV shouldn't be too concerned with MPG since they "ALL" stink!
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I live in Texas with the 5.2L and have no regrets. I drove to Denver for vacation this summer and, although I had no problems, I would own a 5.9L anywhere with hills. From what I hear, there is little gas mileage difference.
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I picked the 5.9L for the following reasons.

1) The price difference was only a couple of hundred dollars. Some of that will probably be recovered on the re-sale value.

2) You don't have to tow to take advantage of the extra torque. With the 3rd seat up and hauling 7 passengers you are hauling roughly 1000 pounds. Here in the CT hills the extra torque is a good thing. If I lived in IOWA I might not bother.

3) I could feel the difference in driving them. I drove both, and both were "fine", but the 5.9L was much more satisfying. Several people have noted that the 5.2L downshifts a little more often in hilly areas. When I decided to go ahead and spend $30K I also decided that I wanted it perfect.

4) The 5.9L get only 1mpg less than the 5.2

In the long run you will be happy with either engine since you don't tow. Both are great engines. However, here are at least a couple posters here who got the 5.2L and now wish they got the 5.9. I haven't heard any 5.9L owners wishing they had the 5.2. To me that boils it down to a question of money. What's it worth to you?

Andy B
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My first D (D1) was bought back as a lemon. It had the 318. D2 (my replacement) has the 360. The only way to go (IMHO) if you plan on having anything but yourself in the truck (towing or not). The D is 4600 lbs empty (more than my old 3/4 ton van).

The 318 seemed underpowered (to my astonishment, I have owned/driven alot of 318's), downshifted too easily on the highway (some folks were just recently complaining about this here) and took too long to upshift going up small hills (backroads).

I am getting the same (if not a .5 better) mpg with the 360. And it's more fun (I definitely notice a difference in acceleration capabilitites especially when you nail it....woo hoo!).

I feel strongly that the 360 is the only way to go.

Matt "the" D
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I feel that the 5.2L is sufficient, but like the others that have responded, if I had it to do over, I too would go with the 5.9

If you don't plan to tow, the 5.2L is excellent, even on very steep hills I found no shrtage of power. The transmissions for each engine are designed to provide similar performance on the streets.

I am perfectly happy with the 5.2. it has good power, acceleration, etc. To be honest though, if I did it again I'd get the 5.9. The MPG is almost the same and it would be nice to have that extra oomph when you need it. Resale value will probably be slightly better too.

Explain torque vs Horsepower

Check out Torque and Horsepower - A Primer over on The Vette Net.

Limited-slip diff and FT vs PT 4WD

There are two basic types of differentials: Open, and Limited-Slip (from clutch-packs to full-on no-slip spools.) This is of course, a gross over simplification, for the sake of this explanation. :-)

With an open diff, you get equal torque at each wheel (approximately), and the wheel with the "least" torque applied wins. So, if one wheel is on wet ice and the other is on firm ground, the available torque (as applied to the surface) is derived from the wet ice side and you don't go anywhere. Open diffs also allow for the "most" variance in rotational velocity (i.e. the tire on ice spins while the other one doesn't move.)

With any sort of limited slip diff, you get equal (or nearly so) rotational velocity at both wheels, and available torque is split to keep both wheels in that state. So, if one wheel is on wet ice and the other is on firm ground, your rotational velocity is derived from the firm ground side and you keep moving forward (although the vehicle "will" pull slightly in the direction of the wet ice, but that's a separate explanation). Limited-slip diffs allow for the "least" variance in rotational velocity (i.e. both tires keep moving at approximately the same rate)

Now begin the math: The D has an open front diff and either a limited-slip or open diff in the rear - depending on which option you ordered. The center diff (transfer case) is either not engaged (2WD), engaged and open (FT4WD), or engaged and 'locked' - which means "no" difference in rotational velocity is allowed between front and rear driveshafts - (PT4WD.) The rear limited-slip diff available for the D is a "street friendly" model so that, unless accelerating around a corner or turning to extreme limits, you won't incur any tire scuffing/chirping (what happens when the diff doesn't allow enough rotational difference between the "inside" and "outside" tires.)

So, for paved roads, your best bet is 2WD or FT4WD, depending on how "iffy" the traction situation is. For dry summer environments, you probably don't want the extra front tire wear, so stick with 2WD (same as normal rear wheel drive.) For winter environments, wet environments, gravel/slippery environments, or drag-racing at stoplights, stick with FT4WD.

For off-road (i.e. mud/gravel) or snow/ice conditions, PT4WD will give you incrementally better traction.

But you need to be careful! Driving in PT4WD on a high-traction surface (i.e. dry roads, etc.) can lead to drivetrain damage, especially while cornering or during high-speed driving. This damage can include axle-wrap (distortion of the axle shafts), damaged/destroyed transfer case, and/or U-Joints. PT4WD "can" be used on high-traction surfaces, but only for extremely short, straight-line maneuvers (like a rolling pull of someone else). However, since you don't gain much extra traction over FT4WD in such conditions, you should avoid using PT4WD this way unless absolutely necessary.

Phyxis
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Without the limited slip (anti-spin) a 4WD vehicle becomes in reality a 2WD system. In 4WD, it makes no difference whether it's full time or part time, one front tire and one rear tire will have power because of the diffs being open. With the L/S at least "some" power will be directed to both rear tires even if only one has traction. FT4WD has a differential in the transfer case that allows slip in the drive train between the front and rear axles. PT4WD doesn't, so it shouldn't be operated on hard dry surfaces!

Hard packed snow is considered a "slippery" surface, so you'd want to be in PT4WD. With PT4WD engaged, the center diff (in the transfer case) is "locked" so both front and rear driveshafts must spin at the same rate. If you have a limited-slip rear differential, all the better.
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I'll do my best to explain this as I understand it.

When you make a turn, the wheels on the inside of the turn actually rotate a little slower than the wheels on the outside of the turn. This is because the outside wheels have to travel slightly farther to stay even with the inside ones.

A 'Part Time' 4WD transfer case doesn't allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. This causes extreme stress/binding on the drive components when driving on dry "high traction" surfaces. PT4WD setups are designed to be used in slippery conditions only. The slipperiness allows the wheels to "spin" just a bit while turning so they can maintain the same rotation rate without placing undue stress on the drive components.

A 'Full Time' 4WD setup has a diff in the system which allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds while turning (i.e. the slipperiness is "built-in!") This allows you to use FT4WD on any surface condition. The real benefit comes into play in a climate where you have varying road conditions (i.e. light snow on backroads but the main roads are dry, etc.) Instead of having to stop everytime you hit dry pavement and disengage the 4WD, only to re-engage it a mile or so later when the road becomes slippery again, FT4WD allows you to 'set it and forget it'. Its a nice option to have.

Should I get Full Time 4 Wheel Drive?

Yes!

3.92 Axle (an option or a package?)

Tell the dealer to look in his order guide or on his order screen when he places the order. It clearly states the 3:92 axle is an option and "not" part of any package

4 wheel ABS versus 2 wheel ABS & towing

You're probably better off with the 4W-ABS. Then the front brakes won't lock up in a panic stop.

Is the 4W-ABS option worth the cost?

Q - I've heard ABS is not the greatest thing in the snow or winter climates! Supposedly, it can cause more problems that properly applying your brakes in a crucial situation causing the vehicle to slide around a lot more. Am I wrong?

A - I think the reverse is true. The more slippery the conditions, the more benefit you get. ABS prevents the wheels from locking and sliding, thus giving you more control of the vehicle. It allows you to continue to steer and move around obstacles. Also, a locked wheel has less stopping power than a wheel on the verge of locking. ABS prevents wheel lock (or at least continuous wheel lock).

Q - Another thing I hear is good braking can out perform ABS with the right person behind the wheel?

A - Are you the right driver? You'd have to be pretty darn good. ABS, in effect, pumps the breaks for you only much faster than a person possibly could.

Q - Does the insurance company give you a discount on your rates if you have ABS?

A - Mine does! If yours does too, then for $500.00 it might just be a worthwhile investment to save some money in the long run.

John M
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John's replies to your queries echo my own opinions. An interesting note:

I read about a study of policemen (professional drivers) and ABS brakes. The statistics indicated a higher incidence of collisions among policemen in the study whose patrol cars were equipped with ABS.

After detailed study, the conclusion of the investigation was the policemen were not properly applying the ABS brakes in emergency braking situations. They continued to follow their training and pump the brakes. They further concluded that pumping ABS brakes (again, in emergency braking situations, not normal braking) was more dangerous (yielded less braking capability) than pumping standard brakes.

Those drivers who applied the ABS brakes properly in emergency situations (stomp and steer) had a lower incidence of collisions.

FYI - Matt "the" D
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Just last week during a heavy downpour I stopped for a changing light at the last second and the ABS kicked on. The D moved forward straight as an arrow. I never could have maintained such control without it.
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I live in the country with lots of winding roads and squirrels and have a belt full of notches for all the poor squirrels I've clipped. I'll hit the brakes, risking life and limb, to avoid the thump but all too often I couldn't stop. Then I got a Lincoln with ABS and the squirrel population in our area suddenly mushroomed. They no longer ran in fear at the sound of my engine. When people ask me what I think about ABS, I tell them "Go ask the squirrels!" ;^P I wouldn't be without it.
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Visit: ABS Education for more information.

Should I get the Rear A/C?

I have 3 kids and live in San Diego where it's temperate but I love to take trips to the desert. Yes, some owners have had problems due to a low coolant charge, I was one, but, now that it's been recharged (under warranty), I've got twin freezers! If you live in a cold weather state, you can probably do without it. Down south, I'd say it's a must! It'll also adds to the resale value.
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I live in MA, 3 kids, no rear AC. The only one old enough to complain is a teenager, so if there was an opportunity to complain I am sure he would :-)
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Although I'll admit they don't ride in it often enough to complain. It seems fine to me, the blower is rather forceful and if you point the vents toward the back it seems to work.

LOTS of folks here have complained about the performance of the rear AC. Some got it fixed others did not (dealer balked.) Months ago someone said they kept hitting their head on it. With all the griping, If you live up north I wouldn't bother but that's up to you.
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I've enhanced my D's A/C by installing an auxiliary electric fan. R-134A is simply not as efficient and condensers need more surface area (or help) than they did with the older freon 12. I bought a small 10" fan from Auto Accessories Connection that was only 2 1/4" thick. It mounted nicely at the bottom center of condenser by forming an overhead bracket affixed right and left with a bolt on the outside edges of the radiator housing. The fan is energized by a 30-amp fog light relay I installed on the A/C compressor's clutch. The relay feeds through a 170º sensor so, when the A/C is on and the return coolant from the radiator reaches 170º, the fan comes on. It's an ideal setup for stop-and-go city driving and lowered the evaporator's air "out" temp to around 42º.

Should I undercoat or rustproof my D?

No!

The Durango has factory undercoating and rust inhibitors. After-market coatings are not only pointless, but can even interfere with the factory coatings. A poorly done coating can actually trap pockets of moisture against the body. Also, overspray in the wrong areas can be a real bear.

What about crash test results?

Many people have asked me about the D's ratings in the NHTSA crash tests, and some ask why the Dakota did even worse - worrying about the D's potential. Here's my take on it:

The Dakota and the D are very different animals. The Durango is totally different from the Dak from the A pillar back. It's also much heavier (4800 lbs empty) and has a different center of gravity. All of those things make the crash results of the Dakota and D impossible to compare (like apples and oranges!)

Now, comparing SUV to SUV, the D only got 2 stars in NHTSA tests while most other SUV's (Grand Cherokee, etc.) got 3. Comparison of the actual figures shows the D actually did better in one category (thorasic pressure measurements I believe?) than the JGC, the leg area results are what seemed to push it down to 2 stars, and even there by only a few points. If they did it again it just might get 3 stars. That close! It did do better in the recent IIHS tests.

Also bear in mind, these tests "do not" simulate real world accidents at all. The NHTSA test simulates hitting a vehicle of the same weight/size at the exact same speed. How often does that happen? A look at the IIHS figures indicate you're most likely to hit a vehicle of smaller size and weight than a D. In fact the odds of having the type of accident simulated in these crash tests are very slim. But, as you'll see below, one of our members came very close, probably more like the IIHS angle crash (which is the one the Dakota did so poorly in on TV!)

Real world:

One of our members hit a deer going 60 mph. Totalled the D (insurance company didn't think so unfortunately - still has a bent frame) and they walked away.

Another member hit the side of a concrete railroad bridge doing 30-40 mph in a panic stop situation and walked away.

That's what I know and I put my 3 kids in it all the time and feel very safe. But, ONLY YOU can decide for yourself and you shouldn't let people like me talk you into it. Don't get a truck, or any vehicle for that matter, you don't feel safe in.

D - Matt "the" D

Any Tips when taking DELIVERY?

You'll want to:

1. Prepare a checklist and verify the options you ordered are on the sticker.
2. Look closely at cosmetics, mine had a 3" scratch on the hood right below the wiper, not noticeable but I was paying 30-grand and I was not bringing home a scratched D, they replaced the hood before I signed the sale.
3. Make sure the lugs are not stuck. This will also allow them to break off the studs instead of me. Maybe if they torque the lugs properly you won't have the problems others have had.
4. Get the remote options you want programmed. i.e. Rolling Locks, horn chirp, one or two press for door locks, etc.
5. Give it a good once over for fit and finish. Check fluids, tire pressure, etc.
6. Take it for a test drive to ensure everything works
7. And most of all, enjoy driving your new D!

How do I decipher the VIN?

The following is an explanation of the VIN for Dodge Trucks:

Position #1 Country of origin	1 - U.S.A. 2 - Canada 3 - Mexico J - Japan
Position #2 Make	B - Dodge C - Chrysler P - Plymouth
Position #3 Type of Vehicle	4 - Multipurpose Passenger Vehicle 5 - Bus 6 - Incomplete Vehicle 7 - Truck
Position #4 GVWR	D - 1-3000 lbs E - 3001-4000 lbs F - 4001-5000 lbs G - 5001-6000 lbs H - 6001-7000 lbs J - 7001-8000 lbs K - 8001-9000 lbs L - 9001-10000 lbs M - 10001-14000 lbs W - Bus or Incomplete Vehicle (with hyd brakes)
Position #5 Truck Line	B - Van C - 4x2 Chassis Cab/Pickup F - 4x4 Chassis Cab/Pickup L - 4x2 Dakota G - 4x4 Dakota R - 4x2 Durango S - 4x4 Durango
Position #6 Series	1 - 1500 2 - 2500 3 - 3500 2 - L Series 4 - H Series 5 - P Series 6 - S Series 8 - Misc.
Position #7 Body	1 - Van 3 - Club Cab 2-Door 3 - Club Cab 4-Door 4 - Extended Wagon/Van 5 - Wagon 6 - Conventional Cab/Chassis Cab 7 - Sport Utility 2-Door 8 - Sport Utility 4-Door 9 - Open Body
Position #8 Engine	D - 5.9L TurboDiesel P - 2.5L W - 8.0L X - 3.9L Y - 5.2L Z - 5.9L (Light Duty Chassis) 5 - 5.9L (Heavy Duty Chassis)
Position #9 Check Digit	The character for this position is arrived at based on a calculation using the other characters in the VIN It's used to verify nothing has been transposed in the VIN and uses the numbers 0 thru 9 and the letter X
Position # 10 Model Year	W - 1998 X - 1999 Y - 2000 1 - 2001 2 - 2002
Position #11 Assembly Plant	A - CTC Pilot F - Newark J - St. Louis North K - Pillette M - Largo Alberto S - Dodge City W - Toledo #3
Positions 12 thru 17 Sequence Number	Order of vehicle manufacturer. 000001 would be the first vehicle manufactured, 000500 would be the 500th vehicle manufactured, etc.